Seeing a brochure in our hotel for a free walking tour, we decided why not. Having done loads of these in Europe they are great to find out the hidden gems and local history. Like for example they have heated footpaths in Tromso. Or the guy who rowed to the pub only to be barred, so he left a massive 300kg rock in front of the doorway. The pub isnt there anymore but the stone still is at the corner of the square. The smallest house in the North of Europe and the little stall/ shops and the women who worked in them. We stopped off in the fish market, having king crab for lunch. That night we joined the chasing lights, Northern lights van tour. We have previously done a bus tour in Iceland. This is so much better, being able to pull over just about anywhere. We stopped and waded in waist deep snow beside the road. Setting up, the lights started very faintly to appear. Then they would dance off and reappear. I honestly thought we wouldnt see them due to a full moon and the amount of snowfall around. Sat around a campfire to warm ourselves, eating great chicken curry. We watched and photographed the lights above. We even saw night skiiers, crazy people off on their own with headtorches on. Reindeer on the side of the road, like aherd of cows. I couldnt recommend this tour more highly.
Sunday and our final full day. This is the day I was looking forward to most, dog sledding. This was an hour and half bus trip to Camp Tamok near the Swedish/ Finnish border. Passing the ice domes as we entered. Greeted by the sound of dogs barking in chorus. The local Sami dressed in traditional clothing. A quick change into full cold suits, boot, mittens and extra hats. We got our briefing on how to drive the sleds. Not sure what I expected, this is not for the unfit. Jason went first, our dogs super excited to go. We headed up the mountain, just us, one guide and two girls behind us. The dogs were so excited they just wanted to poop. And i mean stop and poop. So some are running, some are pooping and we are just running the sled over it. Hilarious. Jason had to help the dogs as they struggle in some deeper snow and up the hills. At one point I get off to help and fall over in the snow. The sled and Jas take off and over some bushes and branches. Im waist deep in snow, trying to get up, laughing as are the girls behind us. Next thing they are both off and cant get back up. We are now all laughing. The guide stops to help asking us if we are ok. Saying “musha, musha”. Im like “what we are in Russia?” Jason starts laughing and the guides saying we are musha. Jason then explains that it means we have to help the dogs. My turn to drive, well this is exhilarating and terrifying at the same time. The dogs can fly down a mountain. Im trying to jump on the brakes. Im not heavy enough. Jason is yelling brake brake. Im yelling I am. Safely at the bottom. I wished to do it again. Chatting to the guide and his girlfriend and patting all our dogs. They are super friendly. Ari we were told was a champion racing dog, and we fell in love with Antonia. We headed off to get changed, checking out the puppies. Joe asked if we wanted to play with them. Yes please. Next thing we have 6 month old puppies jumping up and nipping us. I could of played all day, but they decided to eat my shoelaces, snapping them both off. One running off and throwing it around the pen like a prize. Traditional Sami hut for lunch with a three fish soup and sweet bread. So good i think i had at least two bowls. We want to come back here. Sleeping up in the mountains, snow mobiling, dog sledding, reindeer, northen lights. Im so for it. The bus journey back, a reflection of such an amazing trip. A final walk around town and a stop in the smallest bar for reindeer hotdogs. Tromso we love you. The flight home another example of how stunning Norway is, The sun not rising, a glow on the horizon. Below us glaciers and fjords and the odd light of civilisation.
Wanderlust Craddocks 